la passeggiata
the walk
As day softens into dusk in Italy, something in the air seems to tug people from their homes and workplaces to participate in one of the enduring traditions of Italian life: la passeggiata. This evening promenade, generally between 5:00 and 8:00 p.m., occurs in virtually every town, village or big city in Italy.
“Andiamo a fare qualche vasca!” (Literally, let’s go do some laps—as in a pool), Italians say to one another. However, this “cultural performance,” as sociologists describe it, involves much more than strolling to and fro.
During the week, the passeggiata marks the end of the workday and offers a moment of sociability before the family dinner. On Saturday and Sunday, the passeggiata often becomes the main social event of the day, when entire families take to the streets.
The most important thing is simply seeing and being seen (vedere e farsi vedere). In some cities, people clearly dress to impress or at least to show how well life has been treating them. Shirts are pressed; jeans, if worn, are stylish. Even babies in their prams are ready for proud display.
Attracting the most attention are young women of marriageable age, who, as Giovanna Delnegro observes in her book The Passeggiata, take advantage of “a socially sanctioned opportunity for flirting and courting.” For townspeople of all ages, the passeggiata reinforces a sense of belonging. The greeting of friends and acquaintances, the swapping of gossip and the sharing of the latest news weave everyone into the human fabric of the community.
If you’re out and about in the early evening, you may become part of a passeggiata whether you intend to or not. You’ll feel like less of an outsider if you aren’t wearing a baseball cap, baggy shorts or gym wear. Don’t rush past people. Walk slowly. Stop for a gelato or an aperitivo. And don’t be surprised if, after a while, you start feeling that you too belong.
Here are three of my favorite cities to “fare una passeggiata”:
Rome
Young tourists tend to mull about the Piazza di Spagna or find a perch on the Spanish Steps to watch the parade. Window-shoppers gravitate to the Via del Corso, a pedestrian street lined with shops, cafes and churches. The lively Piazza Navona, with its open-art art vendors, mimes and musicians, may be the most entertaining place for a passeggiata.
The Borghese Gardens, where families pause to let their children ride the carousel or chase pigeons, offers a more tranquil setting. One of the best places to end a Roman passeggiata is the Pincio, poised above the Piazza del Popolo with a wonderful view over the cupolas of Rome’s churches (including St. Peter’s) to the often-spectacular sunset.
Florence
Florence’s narrow streets provide welcome shade in the late afternoon. Many people weave their way to the Piazza della Repubblica, with its choice of cafes and bars for an espresso or aperitivo. I prefer a different route: a hike (or bus ride) to the Piazzale Michelangelo or, continuing upward, to the church of San Miniato, where locals sit in the shade and couples wrap their arms around each other as they watch the sun turn the Arno to gold.
Siena
The buses that bring many tourists here leave by late afternoon. That’s when the Sienese reclaim their town by making their way up the steep, winding streets to Il Campo, the shell-shaped main piazza. You can circumnavigate the piazza, as many do, or venture into the tiny side streets and alleys.
For a bird’s eye view, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre del Mangia (roughly the Tower of the Eater. named for its first guardian, who was called Mangiaguadagni for his tendency to spend all his money for food). As you gaze down at groups of townspeople walking and talking below, you’ll feel—as Italians do at the end of a passeggiata—that all’s right with the world.
Words and Expressions
passeggiare a cavallo — to go for a ride
passeggiare in carrozza — to go for a drive
passeggiatore — person taking a walk
Dianne Hales is the author of La Bella Lingua: My Love Affair with Italian, the World's Most Enchanting Language.
