Coast

Dancing with Kelp

It’s a dance as old as the tides. Long before whales sang or seabirds wheeled through salty air, forests rose from the seafloor, unfurling blades toward the sun. Over eons, kelp evolved exquisite ways to bend to the sea’s rhythms, but its ballet is no mere performance. With stipes stretching up to 100 feet or more, kelp forests produce oxygen, store carbon, prevent coastal erosion and shelter a vast array of marine life.

These vital ecosystems now face unprecedented threats. As ocean waters warm and voracious grazers like purple sea urchins multiply, California’s lush kelp forests have declined by up to 90 percent. Pushed to the brink, kelp is altering its choreography.

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An Upwelling of Life

Native tribes called the Sonoma Coast the “place of churning waters.” The mighty Pacific never stops splashing, crashing, snaking into fissures, wearing away cliffs, grinding rocks into stones, stones into pebbles, pebbles into sand. But the force that parts the seas and moves the waters comes from the wind, which propels the seasonal explosion of life known as Upwelling.

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The Wonders of Whales

“Do you know what whale breath smells like?”

Our captain doesn’t wait for a reply.

“Rotten broccoli!” he bellows as a humpback spouts a few yards from our boat.

Awed by its size and unexpected stench, I almost forget that these majestic giants are, like us, air-breathing, warm-blooded, baby-nursing mammals. But unlike us, some whales have bodies as long as two school buses, tongues that weigh as much as an elephant and hearts the size of a small car, with an aorta (main artery) wide enough for a human to slide through.

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The Magic of Nature’s Vanishing Act

They appear like mirages in the dark of winter, burst into full-throated glory in Spring and fade away with the summer sun. Vernal ponds remind me of Brigadoon, the Scottish village in the classic musical that comes to life for one day every hundred years.  The first time I came upon a gleaming pond in a field that had been dry just weeks before, I was as stunned as if a bag-pipe-playing Highlander had suddenly materialized.

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 Discovering New “Aliens” under the Sea

As a little girl watching a Blue Planet video, Madeline Frey dreamed of becoming a scientist and discovering a never-before-known animal.

“I wanted to find what no one else had looked at before,” she recalls, “to study what no one else had.”a nice post-turkey-day surprise.

Frey didn’t expect to identify eleven new species by age 20 — nor did she imagine that they would be slippery, slimy, alien-looking ribbon worms at the Bodega Marine Laboratory and Reserve on the Northern California coast.

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Time Travel to the California Serengeti

Fire up your imagination, and buckle your seat belt. Archaeologist Breck Parkman is sweeping us back 18,000 years to the peak of the last Ice Age.

Deep winter had frozen so much ocean water into glaciers that sea levels dropped by 400 feet. The “California Serengeti,” as Parkman christened it, stretched from Monterey to Mendocino. This vast fertile plain, thatched with grasses and tree-lined streams, “was probably the most spectacular place in the world for wildlife. Think of thousands of animals moving together, living together, feeding together, sometimes feeding on each other.  It would have blown our minds.”

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